Cycling in India is much much easier than expected. I was prepared for utter chaos but todays ride was actually very smooth, pretty enjoyable: not too bad traffic, not too bad road, not even many people staring at me. I am wondering why it all is very different from my last visit to India more than 8 years ago. Maybe India has changed, maybe I just got more relaxed because I am much more travelled now, maybe it is just because the very south of India has always been very much different from the northwest that I know.
The only traffic challenge I faced were unmarked speedbumps - a particularly malicious multiple specimen of which struck me by surprise and wobbled off my back pannier.
Just as the Sri Lankan coast this here seems to be Christian country - many huge churches around, neogothic in shape, ridiculous in colour. When I was just photographing one I got coloured myself. One guy approached me, shouting ' India, Friend' repeatedly and poured purple ink all over me. Hö, I thought the festival of Holi will be somewhen in a couple of weeks only?! At that first colour attack I was still too surprised, but when I encountered several more ink-pourers on the way I started to fight back which turned out to be great fun for me and the Indian guys (except for the attacker who had not reckoned that half of his ink-bottle would end up being drained all over his very own head, gnihihi). I still have no idea why today was a colouring-random-bypassers-day. Many people also did not know as I was asked several times about the origin of the purple marks on my face, arms and clothes. I was able to clean myself, I only hope I will also manage the same with my laundry.
I had planned to cycle all the way to the southernmost point of India today but some gearshift problems made me end the day before that. Whenever I went up a steep hill in a very low gear one of the shift cables would come off. I could easily reattach it, but this behaviour kept continuing. Eventually I got tired of reattaching the cable and just cycled on in one gear. I still don't have any idea what this problem is about. I hope this is not connected to yesterdays oil change. This problem made me end up in Nagercoil, which does not look very remarkable but has an awesome name.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Day 235 Kovalam - Nagercoil
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Maha Shivaratri was 20th February. There's always a fucking festival, though.
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