Day 317 Shatrunjaya

This is one fantastic place! A 500m hill topped by a sea of Jain temples. A temple city. Like 800 something temples. And nothing else.
In fact I was mentally prepared for a small disappointment: when I first was here 9 years ago we went during monsoon and I remember that half of the place being flooded added a lot to the atmosphere. But also now, in dry season: no disappointment, it is still an absolutely amazing place. Definitely one of my 2 or 3 favourite places during the whole trip! It is strange that me as a really not religious person always tends to like religious places the most. Mmmh, but if I had to choose a religion, Jainism would definitely be one of my favourites: a very strong focus on Ahimsa (non-violence towards all living beings), a cosmology with a self-regulating universe without a creator-god, acceptance of other religions,... - good stuff!
The ascend was hot. And quite different to the other holy mountains I have climbed recently: here the way is not lined by stalls, only a few water sellers. At one of the water places I met Mansi, a jain girl from Mumbai. She is here with her family and a group of about 50 people. They are doing the real thing: climbing Shatrunjaya 108 times in 45 days! That's 2*2 * 3*3*3 times. Though I have no idea of what significance is this. Anyway, even climbing one time was quite an ordeal for me. And I am probably in the best shape of my life. They are doing it 2 to 3 times per day. Without eating during the day. Incredible. Once on the top I could witness some aspects of Jain worship, which included reciting/singing prayers, offering rice, turning some strange metal-flag-turning device while watching the Tirthankara through a small mirror and jumping in front of the Tirthankara with two flywhisks in hand (this could well be the mythological origin of modern cheerleading). The 24 Tirthankaras have been human beings who achieved enlightenment - some of them mythological (Rishabha, the 1st Tirthankara was 1500m high and lived for some Quintillion years), some of them historical (Mahavira, the last Tirthankar was a contemporary of Buddha). The iconography of Jainism is also remarkably similar to early Buddhism: in some temples the Tirthankaras are only devoted by footprints. If there are full body status they only come in two positions: standing naked or in lotus seat.
Thanks to Mansi I got to know some of the lesser known aspects of the temple city, like a small black somnambulant Tirthankara figure who flies to the main temple every night (though noone has witnessed this as this abode of the divine is off limits for us mundane beings after sunset).
I took several hours to wander around. Befriending a construction worker gave me the chance to get into the uppermost level of the main temple. Even though usually noone is allowed to go there even this level had some beautiful carvings (and many many bats). I saw many temples I had missed last time, some very old, some very new and colourful. Just when I thought I had seen all possible temple varieties I happened to step into one with beautiful stained glass and a forest of Tirthankara-crowned marble pillars. I am sure I also missed a lot this time - but even though I might not make it to the full 108 times, I will certainly return.