Because of the holiday all the sights are closed, but: because of the holiday the day was very interesting. To mourn the assassination of the 3rd Shiite imam Hussein the streets are decorated with mostly black flags, the fountains are filled with blood, most cars sport some calligraphy and fake blood, everyone is on the streets, the town is full of music, there is free tea and food everywhere for everyone (including infidels) and many men in mourning groups parade through the streets singing and beating their chests with their hands. Everything is very peaceful - one advantage of the prohibition of alcohol - and many people are very very inviting: every once in a while I had to retreat to our wonderful hotel as constantly being the center of attention can become quite stressful.
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